For some reason, Agra doesn’t seem to get a really good press in any of the several guide books, which mention hordes of aggressive touts and guides.
Our experience is that for the main part, Agra is a delight. It had an airy, spacious feel, with broad avenues. It is dirty in parts – that’s India – but on the whole it feels a lot cleaner and more relaxed than Delhi.
The Tourists Rest House is not right in the middle of town, but it doesn’t need to be. There is always an auto-rickshaw ready to take you to the Taj Mahal or to the Itimad-Ud-Daulah across the river (well worth a visit), or to the Bazaar.
And as prices go in India – the rickshaws are not expensive. Expect to pay 50 rupees or less to take you to most places.
If you do decide to visit the Itimad-Ud-Daulah, just keep your eyes open as you cross the bridge away from the city that takes you over the Yamuna River.
The traffic coming the other way (it’s supposed to be a one-way bridge!) is enough to keep you riveted, with all the stripes and hues and varieties of Indian life coming towards you. And once over the bridge you are in the poorest part of Agra.
The Tourists Rest House
The hotel is built around a central courtyard restaurant. If you don’t like having people walk past the window of your room, try to get a room that has a window looking outward from the building (there are one or two of those in the corners of the courtyard).
There is wifi (100 rupees for 24 hours) if you have a laptop, and one or two computers available for those without one, but I can’t recall the cost.
The rooms have private bathrooms and there is hot water for the showers, but not for the taps in the sinks, which is pretty usual for most places in India that claim to have hot water.
The food in the restaurant is OK – perfectly edible but nothing to write home about.
The staff are friendly and you can store you bags there if you are leaving late in the day after checkout time.
All in all, it’s a very pleasant place to stay.
About Making Reservations
One tip for this and any other place you plan to stay in India: telephone ahead, make a firm reservation and get the name of the person you speak to.
Give them your name and, if you have a cellphone, give them the number. And ring to confirm when you are finally on your train or bus or whatever, en route to the hotel. They appreciate it and you will feel more secure knowing you have a definite reservation.
It’s hard to know how many no-show reservations are made by travellers, but the more substantial a conversation you have with the hotel beforehand and the more of a relationship you establish, the less chance there is of you receiving a blank stare when you finally arrive.
Tourists Rest House
Kutchery Road, Balu Ganj, Agra 282-001
dontworrychickencurry@hotmail.com
2463961, 2265018

