The hotel is a converted haveli, that is, a former residence of a wealthy family. The building is ornately decorated and full of character and charm.
We had a room that overlooked the lake. It was such a delightful room for the price (1,000 rupees per night for a double with attached bathroom) that we are spoiled for finding anything as nice elsewhere on our travels through India.
The room had a large bay window with a cushioned seat and bolsters either side in which we could lounge and watch the lake and the town below.
The bay as well as the door into the room, the door that led to the bathroom, and the ceiling were all set off with a delicately painted frieze of marigolds, cornflowers, and lotus flowers in yellow, pink, and delicate shades of blue. It’s amazing what a touch of decoration can do to a room.
The way up to and down from the room was a bit more problematic. On the top floor and reached by steep stairs, the narrow balcony that surrounded the courtyard had a low parapet wall.
And by low, I mean well below waist height for a six-footer like I am.
This meant that being aware of exactly where we were – four floors above the stone courtyard – was always in our minds as we went to the room.
On the other hand, we were just a few steps aways from the rooftop restaurant which was very pleasant indeed. The Restaurant Natural City View and Cafe Namaste served Indian food, but as well as that they could make pancakes and omelettes and they could always bring something up from the German Bakery on the ground floor.
The German Bakery would have been pleasant but for its nearness to the street outside, which is choked with noisy traffic most of the day.
The hotel is just a minute’s walk from Gangaur Ghat, which is hard to beat for a slice of Indian life being lived on the street – or in this case – on the steps of the ghat. Women washing clothes, and – in the marriage season – brides and grooms being serenaded by their relatives. It all takes place there.
Whatever else you do in Udaipur, take a boat ride around the lake. You can take a shared boat from the jetty on the far side of the City Palace. And if you like bird watching, bring your binoculars because there are a lot of species on the lake.
For a sight that is equally lovely in its own way, train your binoculars on the roof of the seemingly abandoned building rising from the lake close by the ghats. The black dots that line the edge of the roof are cormorants – hundreds of them. Here and there in among the cormorants you may also see a heron or a stork standing sentry.
Hotel Gangaur Palace
Gangaur Ghat Road, Udaipur
Tel: 2422303
